东京有木村拓哉,还有村上春树

第一次东京的时候,觉得东京好迷失。那时候的旅行没有google map,靠的都是自己看地图。这里左拐,那里直走,要手拿地图仔细看着走,一不小心走错了,就要兜兜转转的回来重新走。

东京的各种地铁、JR路线密密麻麻,坐到哪一站是多少钱,如何换线。东京的多得让人眼花的霓虹和店。还有的就是东京的孤独感。

走累了,在拉面店的机器上买一张拉面的票,进去一个个小格子隔开的位置坐下。把小票递给面前的小帘子里伸出来的手,5分钟后一碗拉面从帘子后递出来,然后一个人寂寞的吃掉。

那时候的旅行,是一个人的。

后来,我又去了好多次的东京。后来,有了不再让我迷路的google map。

而这一次的旅行,是两个人。

新宿的小公寓

以前来东京住的都是酒店,从简单但干净的小酒店到日本庭园式的精致酒店都住过,但是这是第一次住东京的公寓。

从成田机场坐火车到新宿,转个地铁到了我和G租下的小公寓。Studio式的小公寓简单、干净,让人想起年轻时的木村拓哉在早年的日剧中会居住的公寓。烧水的壶、烤面包机、微波炉都整齐的在一起,什么都有,但什么都是小小的。

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晚上从这座喧闹的城回到这个小小的公寓时,我给G冲一杯抹茶做甜点。我们坐在只容得下2个人的小沙发上,我会想起村上春树的小说里那些喜欢一边听着爵士乐一边做pasta的年轻男子。他们会跟猫说话,会在东京这座又快又繁华的城市里过着自己很慢的生活。

一期一会的午餐

冬天的东京天蓝的没有一丝云,寒冬的太阳晒的人那样的舒服。我和G从新宿三丁目的地铁出来,一抬头就是Tiffany’s,旁边就是伊势丹。大大的红色“伊”字圆形招牌有蔚蓝的天空给它做背景。

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慢慢走路去新宿御苑,一路是可以吃午餐的咖啡馆。在繁华的大街背后的安安静静地公园和围绕它的街区。实在是适合居住的好位置。

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很多时候旅途中的饭食都是一种际遇,吃到的一顿饭常常是碰到什么便吃了什么,虽然有时也会特地选一家餐厅特地找过去吃。但那种偶然吃到的饭食却是一种缘分,那种一期一会吃到的东西,和无法预期的好与坏。

东京许多餐厅在中午的时候有lunch deal,我们经过一家顺着窄窄的楼梯走到地下去的餐厅,决定吃个午饭。

在地下并不小而且很多食客的餐厅里,我点了sashimi和米饭,G点了带汤汁的海鱼和萝卜。

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那种随遇而安中吃到的意外美食所带来的满足感,让人心生欢喜。

新宿、表参道、涉谷

人是会变的,我不知道什么时候起从一个穿着人字拖背着大背包走遍欧洲的男生变成了一个拉着拉杆箱、住五星级酒店和为了shopping而飞到东京的人。不过我的初心是一样的,变的是我的品味:更加refined,更加懂得欣赏设计、艺术,和其他美的东西。

而跟我在一起的人,更是一个兴趣爱好就是买买买的人。

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从新宿到表参道,再到涉谷。从Isetan Men’s到GYRE,从Opening Ceremony到白山眼镜店,shopping其实也是带着偶然性的事情,你发现哪个你原来并不知道的品牌,你会碰到哪一件你爱不释手的单品,都充满了偶然性。也许你走一整天都找不到你会想拥有的东西,但也许你一出门就买到了你会穿多年的一件衣服。

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这其中的道理,跟恋人的关系是一样的。

 

Mori Art Museum

东京我最爱来的一处地方是在六本木的Mori Art Musem (森美术馆)。在Roppongi Hills,首先会看到的是已故的艺术家Louise Bourgeois的巨大蜘蛛的雕塑。

Louise Bourgeois从小与母亲便有着困难的关系,她的很多作品都用到蜘蛛。大蜘蛛的身下是她的蛋,寓意着母亲与孩子的微妙关系。

大蜘蛛的旁边是一家小小的但很漂亮的Elle Cafe。

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从Mori Tower进去,坐电梯到2楼,便到了Mori Museum Art Store。好的美术馆的设计商店都很值得逛,Mori的更是如此。在这里,我发现了摄影艺术家Ryan Chan出版的zine:从Mad TokyoFitting Into Tokyo,不过大部分都以售罄。G告诉我,Ryan Chan是为滨崎步拍照的摄影师。

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Ikinari Steak

如果你是一个对选择有困难的人,在东京你会更困难,有其是吃饭。因为东京的选择太多,多到不知道怎么选择才是对的。

在涩谷的街头,我和G走来走去无法选择究竟吃什么才是最好。这样的时候,不仅是要跟随你的直觉,更加是要有着随遇而安的心态。

最后我们选择了这家Ikinari Steak,日式牛排。所谓J Steak的理念,是选择你中意的牛排种类、重量和烧法。厨师会根据你想要300克还是400克的重量在你面前将牛排切好成厚片,然后用明火来烤。与传统牛排不同的是,J Steak将很快被烤好,并用铁板上菜,而食客甚至是可以站着吃。

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除了牛排,还有side order可以点:从青豆、玉米、米饭到沙拉。

配上一杯红酒,玉米、洋葱,和化在牛排上的蒜,Ikinari的厚牛排入口即化,让我事后还是想念。

不论在吃,还是在购物,日本都让我觉得充满了哲学的意味。因为日本给我们太多的选择,就像人生,你可以这样选,也可以那样选,但事实是,不管你怎样选,只要你带着正确的心态和跟随你的直觉,最后的结果都不会错到哪里。

DUG

在晚上10点的新宿街头,在MUJI店铺的旁边,我们邂逅DUG。

在东京,很多的店铺在楼上,也有很多的店铺在地下。这家偶然路过的地下jazz bar始于1967年。东京人对爵士乐的热爱在那个曾经经营爵士酒吧的村上春树的小说中给予我们爵士、苦咖啡、威士忌和香烟所营造的氛围中。巧的是,村上春树在《挪威森林》中写到的爵士酒吧是一家叫做NEW DUG的jazz bar。

我们并没有进去DUG。对于jazz bar和村上春树的想象停留在了冬日里从DUG走上来,站在街上抽烟的男子的一幕。

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东京真的很好玩,还有村上春树和木村拓哉,当然还有滨崎步。在木村拓哉会居住的小公寓里,像村上春树式的男子一样煮一个意大利面,然后专心的吃掉。而这篇文字的结尾,怎么可以不用陈绮贞的《我喜欢木村拓哉》来结尾?

我喜欢木村拓哉

喜欢他在同班同学里面短头发戴眼镜的笨样子

围着围巾手插在口袋里好可爱

我觉得他的身体太扁了

但是嘴唇很好看

他的声音粘粘的很适合爆笑的场面

演一个像恋爱世代第一集宾馆里的色狼刚刚好

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Santorini: the Lost Heart

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When I peeked through the glass window of the blue-framed door that morning, a man was doing his morning exercise. He was a man in his early thirties, dark hair, small and slim. He wore spectacles and a brown T-shirt from the Japanese film Battle Royale. He was surrounded by shelves of books. “I was wondering what time you open?” I asked.

This was a small English language bookshop in the town of Oia, on the volcanic island of Santorini, of Greece. In a town without house numbers, Atlantis Books was located in the basement of one of the numerous whitewashed Mediterranean cave houses. A few years ago, Craig, Oliver and Chris settled a debt, found books, shipped them and came to Santorini. Together with some others, they collected driftwood from the beach, and built a bookshop with beds. From then on, Atlantis became a second Shakespeare and Co: a home to travellers, writers and their beloved books.

“Do you have a place to stay tonight then?” Luke spoke with a north London accent. I said, “Not really.” With his invitation, I was given a bed among the bookshelves, in the back room of the bookshop. After spending years in Paris, Luke was living and travelling between Italy and Greece. As a thirtysomething man with no money, Luke knew every single book in the shop and he was writing a novel.

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When I came back from a swim in the cove, I met John, the poet. John was a good- looking young Welshman with an Oxford accent and a nervous look. He stuttered a wee bit when he spoke. He had been staying in the bookshop for a couple of weeks before moving to Berlin to write full-time. When Natalie came up to the terrace, John and I were sweeping off the remnants from a recent storm. Natalie was in her mid- twenties, tanned and spoke with a California accent. With half of her face covered under her novelty sunglasses, she stood, chatting with us while we were working. She had been on the island for a year and half. She fell in love with the place and decided not to leave, thus, she became an illegal resident after her tourist visa had expired. She worked as a waitress during the summer, and for the rest of the year, she just lived her life.

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So it is, I began my island life in a bookshop. In the mornings, I’d get up at 10 am, make myself some breakfast and coffee; watched the shop while having breakfast. I’d hear curious tourists walking down the stairs with comments like “look, here is a bookshop!” Often they were Americans, sometimes British or Europeans. I’d talk to them, or help them find books. When it was quiet, I listened to Jazz and read Greek Mythology. I’d have my lunch in the glorious Mediterranean sun on the terrace, which overlooked the dark blue Aegean. My afternoons were often spent on the beach with a book, and a Magnum ice cream on the way home. Before the dusk, I’d go to where the tourists gathered to see the one most dramatic sunsets in the world. In the dusk, the Greek girl from the shop next door would call “Luke, Luke”, telling us to turn on the lamp outside the bookshop; and you start to smell the sweet fragrance of the honeysuckle flowers. In the evenings, I’d cook a dinner for whoever was there. More tea and poetry reading would follow after dinner, and some of the night time was spent smoking cigarettes and drinking wine under the stars.

Luke

Atlantis window

One of my nights in Santorini was making Greek meatballs in Natalie’s cave house at 3 am. We drank lots of wine, smoked lots of cigarettes, and patted street dogs who came in for a shelter. I asked Natalie whether she regretted her decision, that she would never be able to leave this country. She was leaning on the half-opened wooden door and having a fag. Her face looked tired after a long-day’s work, but her smile was all soft and sweet, “No. I think I’ve found my happiness. This is what I want in life.”

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Santorini is a wonderland in the summer, but when winter comes, it’d become a deserted island with only whiteness but little sign of people. It’d become a lonely place with street dogs and cats. However, winter for Natalie was for fishing with a local fisherman. On this island, live many other people who know or do not know what they want in life. Nevertheless, for people who love all beautiful things in life, Santorini has its own pace, nice and slow.

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When I left Natalie’s flat, the dawn was already breaking. I walked on the edges of the volcanic town, and the ocean was just waking up in the early summer twilight. Quietly I opened the bookshop door. Luke was soundly asleep. Raki, the street dog who came to the shop all the time, quietly followed me in, jumped into one of the beds and went to sleep.

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Santorini guide

小说家那多的自由生活

Text | Xing Zhao
Photography | Elliot Richards

 

在按了小说家那多的门铃后,听到狗叫的声音。他的太太赵小姐出来开门,身后跟着一条大狗。她问我们怕不怕狗,并领我们经过院子进到他们客厅里。客厅约莫有一间小型画廊的展厅大小,带着很高的天花板,家具是古典欧式的。我和摄影师Elliot在大沙发上坐下,窗帘都是拉起来的,略微有点冷。

赵小姐在一道厚重的天鹅绒门帘后招呼我们进去。门帘前是一条过道,过道的一边是一个高到天花板的大书架,书架上满满的都是厚重的书籍。门帘后的世界是一个铺了地暖的开放式大厨房。小说家写作的悬疑故事便是从这里开始酝酿出现的。

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厨房有点旧旧的,但很暖。木头大餐桌占了超出一半的空间,好像某部电影或小说里的厨房的样子,却又拼贴不出是什么电影或小说。那多烧水、泡茶,然后在餐桌上的手提电脑前坐下来,想必是他平时坐的位子。

我们就在这里采访、拍摄了这位悬疑灵异小说家。

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▲ 小说家是一个喝茶的男人

做餐厅是否有给你写小说带来新的视角?

那多: 有帮助,虽然不是新的视角。写小说需要对社会有比较深入的了解。我在专职写小说前曾做过7年的公务员和记者。2004年离开报社专职写作,从2004年到2013年,这10年的时间一直在家里。写作中所用到的社会经验都是那7年的经验,而在做餐厅后与社会又有了全方位的接触,会接触更多的人,对写作是有帮助。

你是一个喜欢与人接触的人吗?

那多: 我不是的。

听说你当初做记者是因为喜欢睡懒觉?

那多: 其实是关于自由度的问题。之前在海关做公务员,但是觉得喜欢自由度比较高的生活方式。做记者的自由度比做公务员高,而没有比做作家的自由度是更高的了。

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▲ 普洱在书架上叠得跟书一样

半夜写灵异小说会不会觉得怕?

那多: 不会。因为是我写出来的。不过我老婆有时会有点怕。我有天生的想象力,容易想到奇奇怪怪的东西。

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什么是启发你的?

那多: 我觉得生活本身就是启发我的。只要不要长时间在一个循环里,不管是旅行或是看一本新的书,得到新的资讯,新的经验,去一个新的地方,住一个新的酒店,开启一段新的旅程,不能一直在家里,或者一直是上班下班,上班下班,要让生活更丰富一点。

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写小说也是这样,要不断有新的经验来激发你对吗?

那多: 对,脑子里的灵感其实也是由生活中的经验来的,而不是凭空的。

对你来说什么是“自由”?

那多: 自由就是可以去自由地生活。如果约束越多的话,你的生活就约没有变化,越沉闷。

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你抽烟吗?

那多: 不抽。

你有特别的嗜好吗?

那多: 我喜欢打牌。但是没有像有的人抽烟或喝酒那样子程度。

你平常写东西写不出来时做什么?

那多: 转转圈。

你的梦想是什么?

那多: 希望我的书能在国际上更被接受。

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那多,悬疑灵异小说家,著有《凶心人》,《坏种子》,《铁牛重现》,《幽灵旗》,《神的密码》,《过年》,《亡者永生》,《返祖》,《暗影三十八万》,《变形人》,《纸婴》,《亡者低语》,《把你的命交给我》等小说。2013年与妻子赵若虹开了餐厅“赵小姐不等位”。

 

去二十遍也不会厌的时髦曼谷

曼谷究竟有什么?芒果糯米饭、红灯区、全亚洲最大的中国城、泰式按摩、泼水节?你想得到的,曼谷都有。

从2004年第一次去曼谷,到现在,究竟去过多少次曼谷,我都记不清了。但我每一次到曼谷,都会发现一些新的东西,每一次看到曼谷都好像是第一次看到曼谷。

让我带你去看一个我眼中的曼谷。

09:00 AM
[Avani Riverside Bangkok]

住过曼谷很多的酒店,但对酒店的品味却是一只在变。从20岁时住的Khao-san Road上的小旅馆,到后来在Silom区的酒店公寓,再到W Hotel。上个月再去曼谷时我在Instagram上找到了一家在几个月前才刚刚开业的曼谷河边的酒店:Avani Riverside Bangkok。

以前定酒店的习惯是在Agoda或者Booking.com上按照地理位置来找酒店,不过最新的旅行习惯是先在Instagram搜图片:酒店、餐厅、咖啡店、购物,不管是吃、住还是shopping,其实最重要的是一种体验,而这种体验在视觉上显得更加重要。在找到这家酒店后就毫不犹豫地定下来了。

Bangkok Avani Hotel travel blog by Xing Zhao

Avani Riverside的地理位置其实并没有像在Silom那么方便,附近没有skytrain。虽然曼谷的taxi很便宜,但是曼谷的交通拥堵,很容易一坐上车就堵在路上好久。不过酒店为客人提供免费的船,可以坐去对岸的skytrain,以及近年来曼谷的比较新的夜市Asiatique。

游够了泳,晒够了太阳,我们在酒店对面的Anantara吃了午饭,愉快的穿过老式酒店Anantara的热带雨林花园,就坐上了每10分钟一班的船,像本地的泰国人一样渡河到对岸去了。

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02:00 PM
[Siam Discovery]

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曼谷属于东南亚世界中的发达城市,它的发达体现在医疗、服务业、零售业、以及曼谷人在思维上的开放、对外来事物的接受度,还有对本地文化的扶持精神。与东南亚的其他曾经隶属英国殖民地的国家和地区例如新加坡、马来西亚、香港不同,泰国在历史上从未被西方国家殖民,或许这也是曼谷对本土文化、设计极具扶持精神的原因之一。

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到过曼谷的人都知道,来逛这座城市的shopping mall是来曼谷旅行中非常值得的体验之一。因为它的shopping mall摩登、干净、从高端时尚品牌到食品百货都可以用比中国便宜许多的价格买到。在零售业面临巨大挑战的今天,曼谷的shopping mall集团Siam Piwat新开的Siam Discovery将shopping mall和department store的概念相结合,为大众推出的体验式的shopping,而非单纯的传统意义上的零售。

除了Issey Miyake和Comme des Garçon等品牌的boutique外,更难得的是Siam Discovery拥有许多泰国本土设计师品牌的boutique,从男装潮牌、西装到泰国本土的香水品牌。而泰国的消费者也是东南亚最不买西方大牌的帐的消费者,他们更愿意为本土设计师品牌买单。泰国的创意产业和本土设计也为此能够得到健康的发展。

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整个零售空间分成一层男士用品的His Lab和一层女士用品的Her Lab,再坐扶梯往上是一层的生活方式设计品、家具设计品、餐厅、咖啡店,还有公共休闲区域。

我们到Siam Discovery时刚好有一个与Instagram有关的体验式艺术装置。排队,在电脑上将你的Instagram账号输入后,再进入到一个四面墙都是LED屏幕的大房间,然后你的instagram上发过的照片会全部出现在四周的屏幕上。

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我们最喜欢的Siam Discovery里的咖啡店是这家白色基调、性冷淡风格的Cafe Now。

KapaZhao at Cafe Now Siam discovery Bangkok

当然还有这家 I+D Cafe:

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在物质极度饱和的今天,零售业并不再单纯的是关于购买东西,而更加是一种体验。购买东西的过程所带来的满足感、对精神的启发和愉悦感是并不光存在于我们所购买的物品的本身,这些精神的东西是由物品以及购物的体验所共同带来的。这样一个线下的空间也因此让我们的生活更加真实、有趣。

05:00 PM
[The Commons]

the commons a hip bangkok

曼谷另一个最新的时髦hang out是位于Thong Lor Soi 17的以“market + village”概念所成立叫做The Commons的社区建筑 。所谓“market”是指这个几层高的木结构建筑中经营着好多家美食餐厅,从一楼的精致版的food court到顶楼吃brunch的餐厅Roast;而“village”的概念指的是这是一个大家都可以来闲逛、吃饭、喝咖啡、约会、见朋友的hang out的community空间。

The Commons根据东南亚炎热的气候所设计,整栋楼全部是开放式,用到许多的木结构,和巨型风扇,与密闭式的整年开着空调的shopping mall甚是不同。也是一个让人的生活空间更接近自然的概念。

Roots BKK a hip Bangkok guide

我们在一楼的咖啡店Roots点了一杯orange flavored tonic ice cooffee。有趣的是他们的冰咖啡是从tap里像倒生啤那样将带汽的咖啡倒进杯子,再在咖啡中加入橘子糖浆调好,放入冰块和新鲜柠檬片,并冒着汽,是带着清凉的咖啡因。

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08:00 PM
[Boat]

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夜色中,曼谷河上凉风习习。我们上岸,经过Anantara种满了兰花和巨大菩提树的热带花园和夜晚无人的大游泳池,回到Avani Riverside。

曼谷对我来说是一座熟悉的城市,但是每次见到曼谷都像第一次见到曼谷。

晚安了。曼谷。

All the Broken Ships

A Margaret Atwood book he left behind. A train ticket he used when coming to visit me from Liverpool. A Uyghur hat I bought for him in Xinjiang. A DVD we once watched together. A green hoodie that still has his smell… Do I keep them, do I throw them away, or do I simply destroy them now that he’s gone?

Many people find it painful to be reminded of the ones they used to love, of the relationships that are broken. Yet there are always things popping up now and then to remind us of someone we try so hard not to think about. In the Almodóvar film“Talk to Her”, Marco sleeps on the couch instead of his bed for months after his girlfriend leaves him. In Croatia, after their own four-year long relationship ended, artists Olinka Vištica and Drazen Grubišić decided to set up an art project together, displaying objects from people’s “failed” romances and the stories behind them. The Museum of Broken Relationships is dedicated to broken hearts.

All the broken ships by Xing Zhao

Years after I interviewed founders of the project,  Museum of Broken Relationships is finally traveling from its original location in Zagreb to Shanghai, bringing not only tokens but also memories of love.

Museum of Broken Relationships Shanghai 2018

During our interview with Olinka and Drazen, they sounded calm and humorous. When asking whether they still felt the pain from their previous relationship, Drazen smiled and said, “You are the person who you are also because of who you have been with. Every relationship shapes and defines you as who you are.” Despite their romantic history, they said doing this project together had helped them maintain their relationship and move on with their lives.

Olinka Vištica is a 40 year old art and film producer from Split, Croatia and Drazen Grubišić is a 40 year old artist from Zagreb, who is dedicated to participatory art. They both live and work in Zagreb.

Concept founders of the "Museum of Broken Relationships" exhibition Olinka Vistica and Drazen Grubisic pose in Singapore

▲ Founders: Olinka Vištica和Drazen Grubišić

What was your initial motive for creating this project?

It was during our break-up that this idea came to our mind during our numerous attempts to save, transform or ultimately overcome our relationship. However, it took a period of over two years before the idea was finally realized. We shared our thoughts with friends and it turned out that everybody we talked to reacted so enthusiastically to the concept. It is one of those really simple ideas that comes to one’s mind in normal conversation. What to do with all those tokens of love (material and nonmaterial) that you gathered during your relationship?

Museum of Broken Relationships exhibits_7

You mentioned the project was to create a space of “secured memory” in order to preserve the material and nonmaterial heritage of “broken relationships”. Do you think most people keep things from their broken relationships, or is it quite the opposite? 

It’s hard to tell. If the break-up is painful often we are all tempted to destroy everything that reminds us of our “failure”. But eventually, I think, each of us keeps something. Maybe it’s hidden at the bottom of a closet or a drawer or at the bottom of the heart – but it’s still there. The Museum project is an attempt to bring all those memories to the surface for the richness of the human experiences they can tell.

Why do people still want to preserve their memories even when their relationships have failed?ad18df3c5e27fc4daad11df5d56d2e63

Whatever the motivation for preserving or donating personal belongings – be it sheer exhibitionism, therapeutic relief, catharsis or simple curiosity, we believe people embrace the idea of exhibiting their legacies as a sort of ritual, a solemn ceremony. Our societies consent to marriages, funerals, even graduation farewells, but deny such gatherings as the demise of a relationship, despite the strength of its emotion. In the words of French philosopher Roland Barthes in “Lover’s Discourse‘: “Every passion, ultimately, has its spectator… (there is) no amorous oblation without a final theatre”. It is not clear, though, and it will probably never be, whether we need this final showing to eradicate our love or to make it eternal. We like to think our Museum does both.

Unlike self-help books and prescriptions we think that love pains cannot be considered as an illness from which its protagonists simply have to recover. For us there has always been much more to explore in that feverish but yet introspective state of mind following a break-up. Throughout history,  pain has always been a great impulse for artistic creation. If we ignore it or if we try to eradicate it by destroying memories, we lose a precious opportunity for personal development and expression. That is, we think, a reason people still want to keep their memories alive.

Are you the kind of person who is attached to things?

I would not say I’m a person attached to things but for sure I’m attached to stories, memories, energy hidden behind things. And sometimes we need things to trigger memories.

museum_1Museum of Broken Relationships key

Is there a piece from you included this project? What’s the story of it?

Yes, this was the first exhibit in the museum collection. It is a small plush wind up bunny.  Since we both travelled a lot, the idea was to take the bunny on the trip each time we were not travelling together. The bunny was supposed to travel around the world but it never got further than Iran because the relationship fell apart just after that. But still there is a nice funny photo of the bunny in a desert near Teheran.

What’s the most bizarre piece in this collection?

A leg prosthesis…

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“In a Zagreb hospital I met a beautiful, young and ambitious social worker from the Ministry of Defense. When she helped me to get certain materials, which I, as a war invalid needed for my leg prosthesis, love was born. The prosthesis endured longer than our love. It was made of sturdier material.”

How many cities has this project travelled to so far? What were the receptions like?

The project has travelled to 13 cities so far and despite the obvious differences in cultures and languages of different countries the response has always been overwhelming. We had never seen such great interests from people before during our 20 years of working in art and culture. One of the main reasons for that lies in the universality of love. It takes just a couple of sentences to explain this project to someone. They will immediately understand it, because they can relate to it. Heartbreak is a painful and formative experience for everyone, no matter in what part of the world you might live. The feeling is universal.

Museum of Broken Relationships bear

Do you play music in the background of the show? If you had to choose a song, what song would you choose?

Normally we do not play music as a background. If I had to pick one song I would pick a line-up from the Smiths or a French song used in one of the films of Francois Truffaut (Que reste -t-il de nos amours? Meaning: What’s left of our Love?)2What do you think are the most important things in a relationship?   

Tolerance, trust and humour.

How would you describe Croatia in a few words?

It’s a beautiful (and small) Mediterranean country, only 4.5 mill people, which still needs to be discovered. It is a country that needs to shape and develop its full potential.

Museum of Broken Relationships underpants

What is the art/culture/design industry like in Croatia? 

There are many talented and active artists and designers in Croatia (and also Croatians living and working abroad) creating interesting, globally relevant projects. But still we lack exposure and support to be able to talk about a general concept or brand that could be talked about as Croatian design or art in the manner we today know about Danish design for example, or French cinema.

What do you think happiness is?

That’s a philosophical question. I’m afraid I can only say that sometimes life passes by in our attempts to define happiness. Happiness is hidden in little, precious moments that are always on your fingertips.

What are the things that make you happy?

Discovering places, meeting people and creating.

Museum of Broken Relationships toys

This story originally appeared in the June 2009 issue of Zing

 

Museum of Broken Relationships
Columbia Circle
1262 Yan’an Xi Lu, near Panyu Lu
延安西路1262号, 近番禺路
Jun 15 until Aug 1, 2018

那些碎了的心,都被收藏进了这座博物馆

他留下的一本Margaret Atwood的小说。他从利物浦来看我时用过的火车票。我从新疆买给他却被他弃下的维吾尔族帽子。我们一起看过的一张盗版DVD。 依旧带着他身上的气味的绿色hoodie。他走了以后,是应该留着它们,丢掉它们,还是干脆将它们毁掉呢?

分手的以后,很多人不想再记起那些曾经爱过的人与破碎的恋情。然而,总是有种种的物事在这时那时不停的跳出来让我们想起那个不想要想起的人。在Almodóvar的电影“对她说”里,那个男人说在女友离开了以后,自己几个月都无法在独自的床上睡眠,于是睡了几个月的沙发。

🏠
「如果你失恋,
请把你的记忆放进博物馆」
Museum of Broken Relationships

 

All the broken ships by Xing Zhao

 

而在克罗地亚,艺术家Olinka Vištica 与Drazen Grubišić在结束了他们长达四年的恋情结束以后,决定一起合作一个艺术项目:陈列人们在昔日恋情中残留下来的物事以及这些物事背后的故事,以次来抚慰世上心碎之人。于是便有了这个Museum of Broken Relationships计划。

在我访问“失恋博物馆”的两位发起人时,这个曾在全球许多个城市巡回展出,唯独没有上海这一站。时隔数年,这个在我自己心碎时去采访、写作的展览竟然在这个月来到了上海。

 

Museum of Broken Relationships Shanghai 2018

 

在我与Olinka和Drazen的访问中,他们的声音听来平静且带着幽默。在问到他们是否仍感到昔日恋情中的伤痛之时,Drazen笑笑说,“每个人是他现在的样子也是因为曾经在一起的人的缘故,每一段的感情也都塑造了你之所以是你。”虽然两人现在不在一起了,但是他们说能够在一起做这个艺术项目也使得他们能够勇敢的面对对方,保持一定的关系,且使他们能够继续各自的生活。

Olinka Vištica是来自克罗地亚Split的艺术与电影制作人,今年四十岁。Drazen Grubišić是来自克罗地亚首都萨格勒布的艺术家,他的信念是艺术是应该为人们所参与的,今年四十岁。

Concept founders of the "Museum of Broken Relationships" exhibition Olinka Vistica and Drazen Grubisic pose in Singapore

▲ 失恋博物馆的创始人Olinka Vištica和Drazen Grubišić

“You are the person who you are also because of who you have been with.” – Drazen Grubišić

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最初怎样想到开始这个项目的?

在我们分手的时候,经历过无数次试图挽救,改变以及克服我们的关系,那时这个主意进入我们的脑子。然后后来是经过两年的时间才将这个想法成形。我们于是跟很多朋友谈起这个想法,而每个人都觉得这是个不错的概念。这其实是很简单的想法,在简单的谈话中偶尔会出现。在恋情结束后,其中的那些信物(物质与非物质的)究竟该怎样处理呢?Museum of Broken Relationships hands and ring

你们认为人们都愿意保留过去恋情中的物事还是恰好相反?

很难说。假如某人的分手很惨痛,他们也许会很想要毁掉那些信物。但是到头来我觉得我们仍旧保留一些东西。也许它们某天会在衣橱或抽屉的最底层忽然被发现,而它们其实在存留在我们心的最底层。而我们的展览的目的也是要使这些记忆浮上来,生命的丰富经验也就在这些故事之中。

museum_1Museum of Broken Relationships key

 

为什么人们在恋情失败之后仍要保留他们的信物呢?

无论人们保留信物的目的何在,不管是单纯的表现主义,疗伤,情感宣泄或只是好奇,我们相信人们将自己的私人故事展示出来是做为一种仪式。我们的社会赞许婚姻,葬礼,毕业礼,却并不以一种仪式的形式来宣表一段关系的死亡,即使这种关系有着极其强大的情感力量。WeChat_1528099913Museum of Broken Relationships can

对你来说,孤独是什么?

法国哲学家罗兰·巴特《恋人絮语》 中说“任何的激情,到头来仍需要观者…假若最后没有剧场,也不会有爱的献出仪式”。我们究竟是需要一个姿势来最后根除爱,还是使这份爱永恒,这从来也不是清楚的,也或许永远不会明了。我们希望我的项目是能将两者都做到。

不像自我帮助的书籍或医生开出的处方,我们认为爱情的病痛并不是一种我们非得从中恢复的病。在我们看来在爱情的狂热中有许多可以探索的东西,而在分手之后也有许多值得内省的东西。有史以来失恋的痛楚也常常是艺术创作的灵感来源。假若我们无视于它,或彻底摧毁记忆来将其清除,我们也将失去人类自我发展与表达的宝贵机会。这也是为什么人们希望将他们的记忆保鲜的原因。

Museum of Broken Relationships  exhibits_7

 

你们是恋物之人吗?

我不会说我是恋物的人。但是我会珍惜物事背后的故事,记忆和能量。又是我们需要这些物事来激发我们的记忆。

在展览中有你们自己的东西吗?它的背后是怎样的故事?

有。这也是我们的第一件收集品。它是一只绒毛的发条兔子。因为我们两个都常常旅行,所以我们决定在我们分开旅行时会将这只兔子带在身边,让它周游世界。但是它最远只去到伊朗,因为在那之后我们就分手了。我们有一张它在德黑兰的沙漠的好玩的照片。Museum of Broken Relationships bear

展览中最奇怪的一件展品是什么?

“在萨格勒布的一间医院里,我遇见了一个年轻漂亮且有远志的国防部的女义工。她帮我拿了我当时需要的一个假肢,于是爱情就发生了。那个假肢的寿命比我们的爱情要长久。它的材质要更加坚固一些。”

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▲ 一个腿部假肢(1992年春)萨格勒布,克罗地亚 (左)

 

这个展览去过多少个城市?在各地的反响如何?

展览去过13个城市。虽然各国的文化语言有所差异,但是人们的反响都很热烈。在我们过去20年做艺术文化工作的经验中,从来没有见过如此强烈的反应。主要原因是因为爱的共同性。你只需要几句话就能将这个项目跟人解释清楚。人们很快就能懂得,因为他们能跟自身联系。心碎对任何人来说都是一个很痛苦的经验,不论你来自哪里。人的感情都是一样的。

Museum of Broken Relationships toys

你们在展览中放音乐吗?

通常我们不在背景放音乐。如果要选一首歌的话,应该会选一些the Smiths的歌,或者是Francois Truffaut一部电影中的一首法文歌Que reste -t-il de nos amours? (我们的爱还剩下什么?

你们认为两个人的关系中最重要的东西是什么?

宽容,信任和幽默。

Museum of Broken Relationships underpants

▲ Underpants, 2003 – 2005, Zagreb, Croatia
A size too small…but I didn’t mind at all.

 

你们认为幸福是什么?

这是个很哲学的问题。我只能说有时生命就在我们试图定义幸福时就过去了。幸福是隐藏在我们指尖的那些小小的宝贵时光。

WeChat_1528099899

 

「终将治愈——克罗地亚失恋博物馆」
中国大陆首次展览
时间:2018年6月15日 – 7月31日
「上生·新所」海军俱乐部
地址:上海市长宁区延安西路1262号

 

This story originally appeared in the June 2009 issue of Zing

拥抱热情的岛屿

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By Xing Zhao

当我透过埃及蓝木门间的玻璃向里张望时,一个男人正在做他的晨间运动。他是一个三十出头的男人,深色头发,身材瘦小。他戴了眼镜,穿了一件日本电影“圣战”的T恤。而他周身所围绕的,是满架满架的书。

“我想问你几点开门?”我问道。

这是一间小小的英文书店,在希腊的火山岩小岛圣托里尼的小镇Oia上。小镇上布满了岩石建造的洞穴房子,一味的涂成了雪白的颜色,漂浮在蓝色的海洋上,挤的满满的,却都没有门牌号。亚特兰蒂斯书店就在其中的一间洞穴的地下室。

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 Atlantis Books 

在2002年,来自英国的Craig、 Oliver还有Chris借了一笔钱,选了书,连书带人一起到了圣托里尼。他们从海边捡了漂流木,在那个洞穴里搭起了书架和床,将书店建了起来。从此,希腊的小岛上便成就了世界上的第二个莎士比亚书店:一个旅行者,作家与他们所爱的书的家园。

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“那你今晚有地方住吗?”Luke问道,且带着伦敦北部的口音。我告诉他没有。于是他给了我一张书店最里面的木头床,在书架与书架的之间,我成为书店的宿客。在巴黎多年之后,Luke现在生活在意大利与希腊。作为一个三十几岁却未有分文的男人,他却熟悉书店里的每一本书,且在写作一本小说。

LukeAtlantis window

等我下午从海边游泳回来时,我认识了John,那个诗人。John是个英俊的年轻威尔士人,他有着浓重的牛津口音和略微神经质的表情,说话时微微的口吃。他在书店已经住了两个礼拜了,正要搬去柏林从事全职的写作。

John

当Natalie爬上房顶时,我和John正在清扫最近的一场风暴给露台带来树枝与沙尘。Natalie大概25岁的样子,皮肤晒黑,加利福尼亚口音。她站在一旁跟我们说着话,巨大的太阳眼镜盖住她的大半张脸。她住在岛上已经一年半了。她爱上了这个地方,于是从此便没有离开过。在她的旅游签证到期之后,她成为了希腊的非法居民。夏天她是一家餐馆的女招待,而其余没有游客的日子里,她便不工作,而只是过她的生活。

Santorini sea

就这样,我开始了我的岛居生活。早上10点起床,一边给自己做早餐和咖啡一边照看书店。常常好奇的游客从楼梯上走下来,说着“看,一家书店!”他们有的是美国人,有的是英国人或者欧洲人。我和他们聊天,帮他们找书。没有客人的时候我便一边听着爵士,一边读希腊神话。

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我坐在屋顶的露台吃午饭,在地中海的万丈日光里,脚下便是深蓝色的爱琴海。午后的时光总是沙滩,和一本书在一起。而沿路回家时给自己买一根Magnum的冰激淋。

 全世界最壮丽的日落 

天黑前,我漫步到游客聚集的海边去看世界上最壮丽的日落。黄昏时对面小店的女孩子总是“Luke、 Luke”的唤着要我们将路灯点上。此刻店门口的金银花也开始散发甜香。晚上,我给书店里的人做饭,而晚饭之后则是更多的茶与诗歌的诵读。有一些夜晚的时光则是在星空下抽着烟喝着葡萄酒度过的。

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

有一夜我们在Natalie的洞穴房子里做希腊肉丸到凌晨3点。那一晚我们喝了很多酒,抽了很多烟,且抚拍了很多进来借宿的流浪狗。我问Natalie是否后悔当初的决定,如今成为非法岛民。她倚在半开的木门上,抽着一跟烟,在一天的工作后显得一脸疲累,但是笑容柔和甜美,“我觉得已经找到我的幸福,这便是我想要的人生。”

 夏天她是一家餐馆的女招待 

而冬天没有游客的日子里,

 她就和渔夫一起打鱼。

Santorini是一个夏天里的美丽乐园,但是冬天来时,游客都走了,它变为一个被遗弃的雪白的孤岛,只有流浪的猫狗仍在。但是冬天对于Natalie,却是和渔夫一起打鱼的季节。

在这样的岛屿,住着那些知道或者不知道自己到底要什么的人。但是Santorini对于热爱一切美好事物的人来说,有着自己的生活步调,缓慢而且美好。

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当我离开Natalie的家时,渐渐已是黎明。走在这个火山小镇的边缘上,身边的大海正在初夏渐明的天光里醒来。我轻轻的将书店的门推开。Luke正睡的香甜。Raki,那只总是徘徊在书店的流浪小狗,静静的跟了我进来,跳上了一张床,便睡下了。

Santorini guide

This story originally appeared in the March 2008 issue of Zing.